DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT
Interview by Hal Rubenstein, Gabriel Global Style Director

Because for forty years his brand has cannily and consistently shifted and morphed to accommodate the spirit of an ever - rapidly changing culture, he is that rare designer immediate, recognizable just by saying his first name. Unlike most people, TOMMY (Hilfiger) loves change. Well, the last two years has instigated a seismic reassessment of every aspect of our lives, and it has been a challenge for every business, every ambition, every individual. Not surprisingly, Hilfiger has not only embraced the challenge, but he's coming out of it smiling. Maybe that's became his collection has never looked better.

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After all we have collectively gone through, do you detect a different attitude towards getting dressed?

For the last two years, the consumer has been focused on the most casual and most comfortable clothes. Nothing fancy, nothing dressy. But during fall of last year the mood began changing. People started to desire clothes to wear ‘out’ again; slightly more expensive, definitely more body conscious. The result is women are looking sexier, men are more eager to find a great jacket to go with their favorite jeans, or even a new pair with a slimmer fit. The energy slowed a bit because of Omicron over the holidays, but the fall gave us the impetus to go forward. So, we are elevating everything, better quality, more expensive pieces but chicer, more tonal dressing. It’s clothing that’s more sophisticated but without forgetting comfort.

“Jewelry is super important and should be a hot item right now for anyone who likes fashion. But whether people buy it for themselves, or get it as gifts, they want pieces that feel meaningful.” —Tommy Hilfiger

Also, I noticed more variation in and play on texture.

We’re injecting a lot more color, because during the time we spent at home, wardrobes became more muted than I wanted them to be.

Do you think there is less inspiration coming from red carpet clothes?

People may not be paying as much attention since the glamour of the red is still compromised, but I still think people are going to pull out the stops. Folks have been cooped up, not able to enjoy themselves, and now they want to make up for lost time, especially young people. Women want something with some shine, some sparkle, beading, crystals, and fringe. Something fancier. Men are becoming more attuned to quality and eager for something more tailored than what they were relegated to wear during lockup. The red carpet is still fun. Who doesn’t love a parade? But people are realizing they don’t have to spend a fortune at Dior to look great.

Who is today’s Tommy customer?

We are more international than ever before. Deep into Asia, India, Brazil. The business has expanded globally because our e-commerce ships everywhere, and during the pandemic people were shopping online more than we ever anticipated from all different corners of the world.

“Jewelry is most effective when it becomes part of one’s personality. That’s why the whole photo shoot vibe of Gabriel fine jewelry with our collection was really cool. Jewelry allows you to assert your individuality.” —Tommy Hilfiger

Don’t you think that will continue, especially since there is a notable increase in older customers who used to have more resistance using the internet?

No more. The major players like Amazon and Farfetch put everything you want or need within reach, so they have been instrumental in making shopping online a natural occurrence for everyone.

Do you think that online shopping has made people braver in terms of style?

Yes, because anything is possible and accessible, and you can try it on in the privacy of your home, and if you don’t like it, it’s so easy to give it back in a self-addressed box with a sticker. Nothing to it. You should know that when your clothes came in for the shoot, it wasn’t just the young members of our crew who were excited about the clothes. There was an age differential of about 40 years, and yet everyone on set liked and wanted them. It’s been a conscious effort to become broader without abandoning youth. It’s a fine line that we’ve so far been able to walk because jeans and sports inspired sportswear have become ubiquitous.

Fast fashion isn’t going away, but do you think the trend is away from disposable clothing?

Absolutely, both because of the growing importance of sustainability but also because if you buy something great you want to keep it and wear it over and over. People have felt that way about fine jewelry for a long time, because it comes with the promise of permanence but now, I think it has moved into other categories as well. Many people discarded their accessories during the pandemic. Should they take them out of storage? For women, handbags are still the most important accessory with shoes right behind. Men are obsessed with watches. But both are buying hats, belts, sunglasses.

And fine jewelry?

Jewelry is super important and should be a hot item right now for anyone who likes fashion. But whether people buy it for themselves, or get it as gifts, they want pieces that feel meaningful.

“The utilitarian look has become a lot stronger and dramatic. Rappers and the hip hop world have brought a lot of focus to this direction for jewelry because it has strength rather than just looking merely pretty.” —Tommy Hilfiger

Gabriel stresses the emotion behind the sparkle.

I think the photo shoot you did with our clothes and your jewelry was great. I loved it. You caught the spirit of change I’m talking about perfectly.

Many of the pieces we used for the shoot were markedly different than what we might have used two years ago. For example, we are highlighting a new dynamic simplicity in chains.

The utilitarian look has become a lot stronger and dramatic. Rappers and the hip hop world have brought a lot of focus to this direction for jewelry because it has strength rather than just looking merely pretty.

What should people look for when they are buying fine jewelry pieces?

Jewelry is most effective when it becomes part of one’s personality. That’s why the whole photo shoot vibe of Gabriel's fine jewelry with our collection was really cool. Jewelry allows you to assert your individuality.

And with that, you just dropped the mike!

Cool, no?

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